Friday, June 24, 2016

Day 27: The Finish!

[Emily]:

What a beautiful way to culminate a month long hike...the Yolla Bollys and the views from its ridges are truly spectacular. I woke up feeling strong and thinking it would be just fine to keep on hiking for another month. On the other hand both Erin and I were excited to see Randy and Dan and complete our trek.

We had mostly ridge hiking all the way to Mt. Linn thus we had wonderful views north, west and east including back towards where we entered the Yolla Bolly wilderness and to the Trinities and Mt. Shasta. We had to traverse a bit of burned ridgeline with ceanothus and downed logs but not nearly as thick as yesterday.

Looking northeast towards Mt. Shasta 
The mountain mahogany was lovely.


Pretty much sums up the great hiking. 
A wonderful last day on the BFT. 
Gotta have an appearance by loopy lupine on the last day. 
Looking back north to North Yolla Bolly and the Trinities in the distance.


There were gorgeous meadows below Mt. Linn...would be a great jumping off point to climb the highest peak in the Yolla Bollys too - next time;)
Hey we’re so close! And just below Mt. Linn.
We did it!
Yay we made it! We finished at the Ides Cove trailhead at 2:15pm - about an hour ahead of Dan and Randy coming to pick us up. It was kind of surreal jumping up and down with a goofy grin on our faces in an empty trailhead in the middle of nowhere - but I actually wouldn’t trade it for a finish at the Pacific Ocean. The Bigfoot Trail takes you through beautiful, remote country - how fitting then to end the hike two hours from civilization. After whooping it up with joy and snapping a couple photos, we did our usual yoga, journaling and snacking (going to miss the little trail routines) while waiting for our beaus and our ride home. I couldn’t have asked for a better hiking partner than Erin - and in fact we had already started to scheme about our next adventure. We knew our BFT adventure would remain in our hearts and minds for many years to come.

Total miles: 11.5

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Day 26: Ridge walking is the best!

[Emily]:

We slept in and started hiking around 9:45am, cherishing our second to last day along the Bigfoot Trail. We walked through so much green and wildflowers along Robinson Creek, and then reached a saddle at 6000 feet with several old western junipers - our 29th conifer species along the Bigfoot Trail.

Camas!

Our twenty ninth and final conifer along the BFT...western juniper.
Although the notes from CCC folks in the jar at Utah’s Meadow alluded to recent trail work, we soon learned that the middle of the Yolla Bollys had not had much if any trail maintenance in quite awhile. The trail became very faint and traversed burn areas overgrown with whitethorn ceanothus - ouch! Fortunately, we were able to stick to the ridges to mostly follow the trail. We climbed up and around the east side of the Knob and soon found the actual trail again.

Though we are on the ridge, it’s not quite easy going. 
Hey its Mt. Linn / South Yolla Bolly Mtn and the end of the Bigfoot Trail - we’ll be there tomorrow!
Steep talus descent to the ridge above the Fryingpan.
Although ridge walking predominates in the Yolla Bollys, often you must descend a bit to find water. We had planned our last night at the Fryingpan, the headwaters of the Middle Fork Eel, the name of which was all over maps in bold font seeming to indicate a prominent camp.

The mighty Middle Fork Eel River
However, the trail down to the site and the fryingpan-shaped flat spot at the headwaters was quite overgrown. Not exactly the most picturesque or comfortable camp spot for our last night on the trail - but a woodpecker was nearby doing construction and we actually stayed up long enough to see some stars. Amazing to be at the headwaters of the Middle Eel and only a day away from finishing the hike. Thoughts of returning to daily life post hike started to creep into my mind, usually kept at bay during the challenging days and content and restful evenings.

Total miles: 9.5

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Day 25: Yolla Bollys in June - the Oz of northern California


[Erin]:

We walked up the road, past ponderosa pine plantations. The trees were like corn, all the same height and without gaps between them. When we got to the Yolla Bolly entrance at West Low Gap, the sign for the wilderness on a cattle fence, the world opened up to a green wonderland dotted with burnt trees and patches of lush riparian growth. Every spring was flowing with water, and the whitethorn (Ceanothus cordulatus) bushes were covered in tiny caterpillars, building their cotton candy winter homes.

I think there's been fire in here.

Oh, it's cute!

Less cute...

(gross)

While the caterpillars frolicked and squirmed in giant hairy clusters, we hiked through this Oz of northern California. The green of the hillsides was brilliant and we gazed without disruption across drainages and hills to valleys and mountains far in the distance. The Yolla Bollys in June are truly at the height of their beauty; I cannot imagine coming back in the dry, yellow late summer, and struggling to find water holes.


I felt tingly with so much green around me. It didn't seem real.






We got to our campsite at North Yolla Bolly Springs. It was clearly set up for hunters (with two giant fire rings and a trough for horses to drink from). But it wasn't hunting season yet, and things were quiet. We headed up the hill to hike to the top of North Yolla Bolly Peaks (plural because there are two of them). We reached a meadow and I spied a glass jar. Angered, I walked toward it, cursing already about trash left behind. But when I reached it, I saw it had writing all over, and was marked as Utah's Meadow Jar. 

Emily reads about Utah Meadow.
The meadow was named for a donkey of a man named Rex, a hunter who went to the meadow every year from the 1950s until some time in the early 2000s. Utah apparently favored the meadow and had "insisted" they return every year. Though long dead, Rex continued to go into his 80s, hunting every year. He passed away in 2009, and the jar contained stories of the meadow, and people's memories of Rex, and tales of his hunting acumen. Someone maintains the small campsite and the jar, and we left our own story there. We saw one other person who was on the Big Foot Trail who had been there (several years prior), and we also saw a lot of messages about trail upkeep further along the trail, which was heartening.
Utah Meadow.
Past Utah Meadow, we reached a saddle and decided to hike up one of the peaks, past small snow patches to a glorious array of foxtail pines. We could see Mt. Shasta, Mt. Lassen, the Trinities, the coast, and the central valley. The peaks (>8000') were rounded and bald, with the foxtail pines bending dramatically on their sparse crowns.


I think this is the cover of my book...

We were giddy over the foxtail pines.


Foxtail pines, being all dramatic.







On our return we ran into two humans and chatted for a bit. One told us he is a member of the Big Foot Trail Alliance (though he hadn't done the trail yet). They hiked down a different direction, and we returned to our camp. Emily and I talked about foods we were craving - for me, it's always Thai red curry. Both of us had developed strange mayonnaise fascinations, and I imagined all the permutations of vegetable-cheese-mayonnaise sandwiches in the world. Each sounded better than the last. We threw the bear bag up in the tree, cooked another dinner, settled into our routines. And Emily pulled her toenail off, the toenail that had been hanging on (barely) for weeks. (DEAR GOD DON'T LOOK AT THE NEXT PHOTO)...

**GROSS PHOTO COMING UP - DO NOT LOOK IF YOU LIKE INTACT TOENAILS!**





I warned you. That's Emily's toenail.

Total miles: 10.5

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Day 24: Up a hill... on a road... lined with pine...

[Erin]:

We started today talking with our new mountain biker friends, establishing some connections. Mike, an esteemed gentleman whom I later dubbed the Statesman of the Trinity Bike Scene, talked for a while about all things bicycles. He was particularly enthused after learning that Emily had participated in the Hayfork Century, which Mike had helped organized. [Note: In August, we went back and did a 68-mile bike ride with Mike that covered some of our skipped section between the Trinity Alps and the South Fork of the Trinity... on the uphill portions, which totaled 8,000 vertical feet, as Emily and I gasped for air, Mike kept up a stream of nonchalant, happy chatter.]

We started with five miles on trail. The forest was lovely and green, and the trail was so nicely graded and comfortable. Then we hit the road, and went up and up and up for 10 miles. We saw a few big snakes, and we carried extra water because we knew it would get scarce. The ponderosa pine plantations lining the road became monotonous, and we just put one foot in front of another until we got to springs trickling down from the uphill slope.

We camped on the edge of the road. My slightly neurotic side was wary of cars, though for the entire 10 miles uphill we had seen no one. The water was nearby and the Yolla Bollys were just over the hill, so I slept in eager anticipation of the next day.

Total miles: 15.4

Emily grows weary of p-pine plantations.

Camping on the road offers a lot of flat ground...

Monday, June 20, 2016

Day 23: Into the Wilds of the South Fork Trinity

[Emily]:

After a decadent evening the night before with friends, Erin and I started out the day a bit slower than usual. We had planned to get a ride through the Hayfork Valley and start along the Smoky Creek Trail, just south of Highway 36. As Randy drove us to the start of our last leg of the journey, the twisty car ride rattled our stomachs and we felt the effects of civilization. Eventually we got to the “trailhead” off of the Bramlett Road in the middle of a large burn that occurred last year.

Heading into the wilds of the South Fork Trinity along Smoky Creek Trail
As we dropped down the trail, we traversed through manzanita and then areas of serpentine.

We saw our twenty seventh conifer - ghost pine. 
Eventually we made it down to the South Fork Trinity canyon and a trail junction with the remnants of an old cabin. The South Fork Trinity Trail was wide and easy walking well above the river, though there was quite a bit of poison oak. Eventually we came to St. Jacque’s Place, a flat terrace above the river and starting our routine of setting up camp.

Consulting the map set at the trail junction
South Fork Trinity Trail - lovely for hiking and cycling.  

Camp at St. Jacque’s Place - though we would soon learn more of its history. 
As we were setting up the tent, I suddenly heard a crashing, mechanical noise and turned to find two cyclists barreling down the trail to the meadow. Soon two other bikepackers joined them. All of us were quite surprised to see another group. We started chatting about the trail, each of our trips and the history of the terrace meadow we called St. Jacque’s Place. Mike, the wise leader of the bikepacking group, told us that a man named Jack had staked his claim here in the 1930s by walking in from Red Bluff and then back to the land office. He apparently did enough mining to walk into Hayfork in the 1960s and drop down a bag of gold to help fund the creation of the community swimming pool. The cyclists looked around for a camp spot further in the meadow, and we contemplated all the unknown history of the places we had hiked through along the BFT.

Total miles: 12.5

Sunday, June 19, 2016

Day 22: Surprise Party!

[Erin]:

We started down the trail early, the better to avoid the crowds. We hiked fast down the Stuart Fork, headed to the trailhead. We knew we would see Randy and Gabrielle and Ben, and that we would sleep in a cabin near Trinity Lake and take showers. We stopped for our "first lunch" at a quiet spot on the river, then got up and hiked another few hundred feet. I saw two people ahead - day hikers, a man and a woman. The man raised both his arms and started walking toward me and I was just confused... until I realized it was Dan (Emily's beau) and Natalie! Surprise!

We hiked a bit back on the trail with them to admire the view, then headed down to the trailhead.

Such a nice path.


Bridges! Luxury...

The swirling river

Meadow

Me and my piney friend

Ceanothus
Upon arrival, we opened our beers and admired our gifts from Dan and Natalie (including polka dot tights and Big Foot figurines) and a few minutes after that Randy appeared, and we all headed to our cabin at Pinewood Cove. Ben and Gabrielle were there and we ate, drank, played Cards Against Humanity, and stared at a fire.
Note the polka dot tights. All the rage in the Trinity Lake region this summer.


Total miles: 10.8